Merry Christmas Eve from Tokyo! OMG, I still can’t believe we’re actually here. Japan has been top of my “live long-term” list for ages and when the borders opened again, I jumped. We’ve been running around like happy kids these past few days… wide-eyed, full-bellied, and permanently underdressed because winter here is a crisp little wake-up call. Tonight we wandered Marunouchi with the lights on and the wind behaving, had dinner at a cute café, and just soaked up that December glow. (Pinch me.)
What Christmas in Japan actually feels like
Christmas here is more sparkle + romance than “everyone’s off work.” It isn’t a national holiday, so life is mostly business-as-usual, but the city turns on the charm with illuminations, special desserts, and date-night energy on Christmas Eve. New Year’s is the big family holiday; Christmas skews secular and cozy. You’ll see buckets of fried chicken being pre-ordered (yes, KFC on Christmas is a thing) and strawberry shortcakes in every bakery case. It sounds quirky until you try it, then it just tastes like December.
The couple-y bit
If you’re out on Christmas Eve, expect full restaurants and hand-in-hand strolling under the lights. It’s very “Valentine’s with mittens,” and you’ll want to book dinner. Meanwhile, the New Year period (around Jan 1–3) is when many places close and locals head to shrines for hatsumōde (first visit). Plan sightseeing accordingly.
Our Christmas Eve: walking Marunouchi & eating warm
We popped out near Tokyo Station (Marunouchi side) and followed the glow down Naka-dōri. Trees wrapped in champagne-gold LEDs, shop windows dressed to the nines, and that perfect “cold enough to hold your cup with two hands” weather. This Marunouchi Illumination runs every winter and stays on late during December, which makes it an easy, pretty after-dinner walk if you’re in the area. We ducked into a café for something warm, watched couples take photos, then stepped back outside to hunt for the best angle of the red-brick station building. The city really puts on a show.
When to go: Lights typically switch on mid-November and run through mid-February; hours extend to midnight in December. It’s free, central, and very “this is Tokyo at Christmas.”
Things to do in Tokyo at Christmas (the fun, easy hits)
1) Chase the lights
Start with Marunouchi Illumination around Tokyo Station, then hop to Roppongi Keyakizaka for that famous blue-white tunnel (hello, Tokyo Tower peeking through). Tokyo Midtown Hibiya’s “Magic Time” also puts on a gorgeous show—walkable from the Imperial Palace side if you’re already downtown.
2) Hit a Christmas market
Tokyo’s official Christmas Market has grown into a proper event, with the main venue at Meiji Jingu Gaien (and an additional run at Shiba Park most years). Expect a German-style tree, mulled wine, craft stalls, live music, and timed ticketing on peak days. Go midweek or early to avoid the crush.
3) Eat the “Japan at Christmas” classics
KFC (pre-order!): It’s tradition, people line up and many order weeks in advance. If you’re curious, book a set online or pop by a quieter branch early.
Strawberry shortcake: Fluffy sponge + whipped cream + perfect berries. Bakeries sell out in the evenings, reserve or go earlier in the day.
4) Make it a Tokyo Station evening
Take photos at the Marunouchi Plaza, ride the elevator to KITTE Garden for the free rooftop view, then wander back under the lights. If you’re hungry, Tokyo Ramen Street and GRANSTA (inside the station) are stacked with options, great if you’re chilled and need fast, delicious.
Quick guide to Christmas traditions (so you’re not confused)
Not a national holiday: Trains/malls run normally; offices are open. The big “time off” stretch is New Year.
Date-night Christmas Eve: Book restaurants. Illuminations are part of the ritual.
KFC + cake: Marketing alchemy from the ’70s turned fried chicken and strawberry shortcake into the country’s go-to Christmas dinner/dessert duo. Expect pre-orders and queues.
If you want a little itinerary (our style, no rush)
Late afternoon: Arrive at Tokyo Station (Marunouchi side) → quick photos of the red-brick façade.
Golden hour: Walk Naka-dōri as the Marunouchi Illumination clicks on.
Dinner: Cozy café or ramen under the station (no reservations stress).
After-dinner: Hibiya/Roppongi for a second set of lights, or linger at KITTE’s rooftop and call it a night.
Practical tips for Christmas week in Tokyo
Layers + heat packs: Even on “mild” nights, the wind between buildings reminds you it’s winter.
Reserve dinners for Dec 24: Especially anywhere with a view; Christmas Eve is prime date night.
Markets & lights: Check dates/hours, Marunouchi runs through February, Roppongi markets usually end Dec 25, and some events have paid entry or timed tickets.
New Year closures: Museums, small shops, and even some restaurants take breaks around Jan 1–3. Plan big temples/shrines or outdoor walks for those days.
Where we walked tonight (and why I loved it)
We did the Tokyo Station → Naka-dōri → café → back to the plaza loop, and honestly it was perfect: festive without elbowing through a million people, pretty for photos, and easy to get home from. The city feels clean and calm—like someone sweeps the streets 24/7 (because they kind of do). It’s the exact vibe I wanted for Christmas Eve: a little sparkle, a lot of warm food, and that “how is everything this tidy?” wonder you never quite get used to here.
