Before we delve into the depths of the cave church, let me remind you-you’ll want to catch Part 1, where we walked through Cairo’s Garbage City (Manshiyat Nasser). For the full story and photos, check it out HERE
A Moment of Anticipation
When we arrived close to the entrance to Saint Simon’s Cave Church, Rasha asked me to close my eyes and gently took my hand as we walked forward. I’ve visited over 100 churches around the world-each stunning in its own way-but this moment felt different. With my eyes shut, I had no clue what awaited me.
Then… she whispered, “Open now.”
When I did, I was utterly speechless.
A Church Carved from Stone
We stepped into an enormous cavern-a breathtaking masterpiece of faith and human determination. This wasn’t just a church; it was a monument. Carved directly into the Mokattam Mountain, it is one of the largest Christian churches in the Middle East. It seats up to 20,000 worshippers across multiple cave chapels and open cave amphitheaters.
Intricate sculptures and Biblical carvings line the cliffs. This isn’t decoration-it’s devotion carved onto stone: scenes from the life of Jesus, Lazarus, Joseph and Zuleikha, even Samson-all etched into the mountain’s heart.
Born from Exile and Faith
The Zabbaleen community, who are predominantly Coptic Christians, were resettled here in the late 1960s and early 1970s after being pushed out of their former neighborhoods. By 1975, they felt secure enough to build their first church—an original structure of tin and reeds-only for it to be destroyed in a fire a year later.
Rather than give up, they dug deeper-literally-into the mountain. The outcome? Saint Simon the Tanner Monastery, built within the caves from 1976 onward, eventually expanding to hold 20,000 worshippers.
Named for a 10th-century tanner and ascetic revered in Coptic tradition-famous for moving the Mokattam Mountain by faith—this church is a living testament to enduring hope and spiritual resilience
Hidden Gem, Public Wonder
Its location in Garbage City means that most Egyptians don’t even know it exists-Uber drivers, locals, fellow Cairo residents-even those raised in the city-haven’t heard of it. And yet, every week, thousands of worshippers-sometimes upwards of 30,000-gather here, Muslims included, drawn by its deep spiritual energy.
There’s something sacred in that contrast-this massive, hollowed-out sanctuary carved deep in stone, alive with faith, far from tourist trails.
Why This Matters
Walking through Garbage City and into the mountain church, I realized travel isn’t about polishing your experience. Real connection rarely happens on the museum floor-it hides in the alleys and caves where people live, breathe, worship.
This is the kind of travel that changes you-not just because of the sights you see, but how they make you feel.
And this is just Part 2.
Stay tuned for Part 3, where we end this sacred journey with dinner at Rasha’s family home-simple, soulful, unforgettable.
🔗 Full story so far and photos in previous post. New here? Start with Part 1, then come back!
Quick Facts:
| • Built into Mokattam Mountain | • Seating for up to 20,000 worshippers |
| • Founded 1975, expanded post-1976 fire | • Named for 10th‑century St. Simon the Tanner |
| • Majority Coptic Christian Zabbaleen community | • Mostly unknown to average Cairene locals |
