Nanjing Road is the Shanghai I picture when I close my eyes: neon letters stacked on history, families strolling with sesame snacks, a thousand languages melting into the same hum. It’s also huge, a 5.5 km ribbon from the Bund to Jing’an, so going in with a plan is the difference between “wow, we did that” and “why do my feet hate me.”
Where to start (East vs. West, and how to choose)
East Nanjing Road (南京东路) is the famous pedestrian street, a carnival of old-school department stores, snack carts, and the easiest gateway to the Bund. The car-free stretch runs roughly 1.2 km, and in 2020 it was extended all the way to the waterfront, which is why that sunset walk to the skyline feels so smooth now.
West Nanjing Road (南京西路) is the polished sibling: flagship boutiques, glossy malls (HKRI Taikoo Hui, Plaza 66), and leafy side streets near Jing’an. If you love a luxury browse or café hop, this is your zone. Metro lines 2/12/13 all meet at West Nanjing Road Station, so it’s an easy pivot from anywhere in the city.
My rule of thumb:
- First-timers: start East, walk toward the Bund, grab your night photos, and people-watch till you’re soft around the edges.
- Shoppers/café people: base yourself West for boutiques, dessert detours, and a calmer vibe between stops.
Getting there (the breezy version)
- For East Nanjing Road (pedestrian street/Bund side): ride Metro Line 2 or 10 to East Nanjing Road Station. From there, it’s a short stroll to the lights, and about a 15–20 minute walk to the Bund if you want that river view.
- For West Nanjing Road (Jing’an): use Lines 2/12/13 to West Nanjing Road Station; you’ll pop up into a triangle of big-name malls and café streets.
Tiny hack: If you’re bouncing between People’s Square and East Nanjing Road, the metro hop is one stop and dirt-cheap, but walking the distance above ground lets you soak in the street.
What it feels like (and what to actually do)
East Nanjing after dark is the classic, billboards blaze, families queue for candied hawthorns, and the old emporiums throw it back to Shanghai’s department-store heyday. There’s even a little sightseeing trolley that rolls down the pedestrian street if your feet need mercy (kids love it; so do feet).
West Nanjing by day is café-crawl heaven and window-shopping therapy. Between malls you’ll find side lanes that feel more neighborhood than megacity. It’s where I slow down, pick a pastry, and watch the city stream by.
That pink pastry-café moment (yes, it’s as photogenic as it sounds)
While drifting along Nanjing West, we stumbled into a little fever dream: Butterful & Creamorous × Charlotte Tilbury, a collab that marries chic pink décor with towering, flaky pastries. The flagship is on Wujiang Road, steps from Nanjing West Road Station (look for Exit 4; it’s essentially right there), and yes, people line up for both the sweets and the selfies. Perfect for a mid-shop sugar pause or a beauty-girl moment with coffee.
When to go (and how to pace it)
- Golden hour to night is when East Nanjing Road turns cinematic; grab your Bund shots after the lights flip on.
- Morning/early afternoon is nicer for West Nanjing, airier sidewalks, easier tables at popular cafés, and shorter lines.
- If it’s a national holiday, the crowds swell; go earlier than you think or shift to West for breathing room.
A simple route that just works
Option A (first visit): Metro to East Nanjing Road → stroll the pedestrian street → Bund for skyline views → backtrack a little for dinner on a side lane.
Option B (mix it up): Start West Nanjing for shopping + café (hit that pink collab), then metro to People’s Square and walk the pedestrian street east toward the Bund for the night view.
What’s nearby (pairing ideas)
- From East Nanjing Road, the Bund is your natural finale. If you’ve got more time, the Shanghai Museum and People’s Park are a short hop away.
- From West Nanjing Road, you’re close to Jing’an Temple, and the mall clusters make it easy to duck in for AC, a great pastry, or a fancy tea break.
Practical tips you’ll thank me for
- Shoes > everything. The distance creeps up, especially if you loop the Bund.
- Payments: QR rules, but foreign cards now work in Alipay/WeChat Pay for most visitors. Load them before you fly.
- Crowds: If someone motions for a photo, a simple smile and wave is fine. Keep moving if you’re not in the mood; the street is the attraction, not you.
- Trolley: Fun novelty on the pedestrian street if little legs are fading (or yours are).
Quick history bite (to impress yourself)
What began as “Park Lane” in the mid-1800s morphed into the city’s retail spine, later split into East and West sections and reimagined as a pedestrian zone around 2000, then extended to the Bund in 2019–2020. The result is the photogenic artery you’ll walk today, old Shanghai bones with new Shanghai glow.
