We went at night, and wow. The second those elevator doors opened at 202 meters up, Tokyo spilled out like a glitter field. You’ve got the Shinjuku towers glowing right in front of you, dark pockets of parkland below, and city lights stretching to the horizon. It’s the perfect “first skyline” if you’re new to Tokyo, and the best part: it’s completely free.
I always tell people to treat this like a mini night out: ride up, take your time finding your bearings (there are panels pointing out landmarks), grab a drink if the café’s open, and just let the city hum under you. Night is the vibe here, pure neon calm. The South observatory is especially good for after-dark views and stays open late with last entry at 9:30 pm.
Quick facts (so you don’t have to Google mid-elevator line)
What/where: Twin observatories on the 45th floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No.1 in Nishi-Shinjuku. Free entry.
Hours (typical): 9:30–22:00, last entry 30 min before closing. South deck is the reliable pick for night views (last entry 21:30; vacate by 22:00). Schedules can vary, check same-day info.
Closures: Usual New Year holidays, plus South closed 1st & 3rd Tue; North closed 2nd & 4th Mon (shifted if a holiday).
Elevator/location: Follow signs to the Observatory Elevator in Main Building No.1; queues are on the ground level (and can snake to B1 at peak). Security check is quick.
Access: Direct to Tochōmae Station (Toei Ōedo Line) Exit A4 or ~10 min walk from JR Shinjuku West Exit.
North vs. South (which deck to choose?)
Both sit at 202 m and look different directions. If you only have one shot at a night view, pick the South Observatory, it traditionally keeps later hours and has a café for warm-up breaks. If you’re chasing daytime Fuji sightlines, either can work on a crisp winter morning, but the South angle often feels more “central-Tokyo postcard.” (Fuji is a daytime treat, don’t expect it at night.)
Our night visit (what it actually felt like)
We went late, skipped sunset crowds, and had room to roam the windows. The city felt clean and hushed from above, Shinjuku’s office blocks lit like circuit boards, the black rectangle of Shinjuku Chuo Park below, and a thin orange seam at the horizon. I pressed my camera right to the glass (more on that trick below) and let the shutter do its thing. Ten out of ten date-night or family-night activity, especially if you’re nearby for dinner.
How to get there (zero stress route)
Subway: Take the Toei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (E-28), Exit A4. You’ll basically pop up inside the government complex; signs point you to the observatory elevator.
JR/Metro: From Shinjuku Station (West Exit) it’s a flat ~10-minute walk through the skyscraper district. Follow “Tokyo Metropolitan Government” signs or cut through the underground passages if it’s windy or wet.
Hours, lines, and closures (the practical bits)
Typical hours run 9:30–22:00 with last entry 30 minutes before; South is the night-view champ and often the one you want after dinner. Expect short waits on weeknights after 8 pm; sunset and weekends can stack up. Each deck has its own fixed closure days (South 1st/3rd Tue, North 2nd/4th Mon) and the complex pauses around New Year, always glance at the official page before you go.
Photography tips for night (learned the fun way)
Reflections are your enemy. Kill glare by pressing your lens straight to the glass. Wear dark clothing and shade with your hand if needed.
Tripods: Generally not allowed inside, move light and hand-hold or brace on the window ledge.
Golden rule: If you love silhouettes and city glow, aim for 30–60 min after sunset; for emptier frames, after 8:30 pm is bliss.
Café, souvenirs & facilities
The South Observatory usually hosts a small café (clutch in winter), and both decks have souvenir counters and landmark panels around the windows. Elevators are spacious; there are accessible restrooms; staff handle flow efficiently even on busy nights.
Make a night of it (easy add-ons within 10–15 minutes)
Shinjuku Central Park: Quiet nighttime stroll and good angle to admire the twin-tower façade on your way back.
Omoide Yokocho / West-side izakaya lanes: Classic, cozy after-view bites.
TOKYO Night & Light (projection mapping on the façade): Free, scheduled nightly shows that paint the building in animated light, fun bonus if times line up.
Why this deck beats paid ones (sometimes)
I love Tokyo Tower, Skytree, and Shibuya Sky for different reasons, but Tochō’s observatories are free, fast, and right next to Shinjuku’s food scene. If you’re juggling kids or just want a “wow” without budgeting tickets, this is the one to slot in. You can always stack a paid deck another night.
Need-to-knows (bookmark this)
Address: 45F, Tokyo Metropolitan Government No.1 Building, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Observatory Elevator from the 1F of Main Building No.1. Free.
Best timing for Fuji (daytime): Clear, dry winter mornings offer your best chance, bring a zoom. Nights are for skyline sparkle, not Fuji.
Closest station: Tochōmae (E-28) Exit A4; Shinjuku West Exit by foot works well too.
